Teach Soap

Soap Making Recipes, Tips and Tutorials
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PostPosted: Mon May 26, 2008 2:49 pm 
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Location: Bellingham, WA
It's our first Soap Contest on the Forum!

And it's the kind of contest that everyone can win!
Here's the deal, create an American Flag soap using any technique and post a picture of it on this post.
You will receive $5 off your next purchase from Bramble Berry - it's that easy! (one entry per customer - but you can post as many pics as you like!)

For instructions on posting an image on the forum go here

Anne-Marie will post a few of her favorites on her blog! http://www.soapqueen.com

Deadline is the 4th of July.

If you have any other questions feel free to pm me! :D

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PostPosted: Wed May 28, 2008 6:11 pm 
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Image

Ok, so that's a very early picture. I've gotten a bit better at it over the years. It's just a loaf mold done in layers (you do the blue layer first, unmold it and cut it in strips). Return a blue strip to the loaf mold, spray with alcohol and pour the first red layer etc. :)

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PostPosted: Wed May 28, 2008 8:12 pm 
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Wow! That looks great!

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PostPosted: Wed May 28, 2008 8:37 pm 
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soapbuddy wrote:
Wow! That looks great!


Thanks buddy! I always make sure to use the large loaf now whenever I make them, since it's the same amount of work but you get a few extra soaps from it.

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PostPosted: Wed May 28, 2008 9:13 pm 
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Did you use micas, so they don't bleed?

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PostPosted: Thu May 29, 2008 8:14 am 
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soapbuddy wrote:
Did you use micas, so they don't bleed?


Nope, not for this soap. I only use oxides, ultramarines, clays and micas - none of which bleed and all carried by Brambleberry!

The blue is ultramarine blue with a little black oxide.
The red is red oxide with a little ultramarine blue (red oxide tends to be a little rutty byt by adding blue it eliminates any hint of orange).
The white is just white shea butter soap.

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PostPosted: Thu May 29, 2008 8:33 am 
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Here's the link to BB non-bleeding colorants: (just scroll down to where it says "Bramble Berry Pigments > Oxides & Ultramarines" http://www.brambleberry.com/micas.html

BB also has a list of non-bleeding micas which they carry and which I love! http://www.brambleberry.com/nonbleeders.html

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PostPosted: Thu May 29, 2008 11:12 am 
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I use micas mostly because I know they don't bleed.

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Closed minds are like faulty parachutes; they refuse to open.


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PostPosted: Fri May 30, 2008 7:06 am 

Joined: Mon Jan 21, 2008 7:05 am
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Location: MN
PJ, thanks for posting that pic. I was wondering, do you have trouble with seperating? I made a multi colored heart with roses on the top, which were poured first. One rose bud seperated from the rest of the soap. The leaves were a green, poured next did not seperate. I have four colors in the bars and it looks like the "lace" wants to seperate also ( I unmolded the other 2 in the middle of posting this!) The m&p I used is old, 1 yr or more, and I melted it in a soap kettle. I guess what I am wondering is are your layers totaly set before poring the next layer? Or I'm I just useing yucky base?

Joyce


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PostPosted: Fri May 30, 2008 10:25 am 

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Do you spritz with rubbing alcohol between layers?


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PostPosted: Fri May 30, 2008 11:02 am 

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oops, forgot to mention that part. Yes, I did spritz the rubbing alcohol between every layer.


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PostPosted: Fri May 30, 2008 11:38 am 
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ADMIN NOTE: This was such a good suggestion and thread, I moved it to the MP forum so it will get its due in the sun. I wouldn't want these helpful hints to be missed in the Fourth of July Soap excitement!

http://www.teachsoap.com/forum/viewtopi ... =2266#2266


soapaddict wrote:
PJ, thanks for posting that pic. I was wondering, do you have trouble with seperating? Joyce


Sometimes my layers are totally set and sometime they aren't. The most likely culprit is that you are spraying too early. There is a very short window in which you have time for the misting of alcohol to keep open that seal between layers. I have seen and experienced this myself. Here's a quick list to make sure your layers adhere:

1) rubbing alcohol comes in 70%-90% pure get the 90% if you can.
2) don't use just any sprayer use a mister, this will give great coverage without ending up with pools of evaporating alcohol.
3) spray every and any layer regardless of how small JUST before pouring the next layer.
4) if you have an ultra detailed or fine layer at the top of your soap (see example below) make sure to let the finished soap set up then cover the exposed parts in plastic wrap and turn the mold detail side up in the freezer for 5 min under the blower.

Example of ultra fine detail (not painted): Image

M&P soap should last a few years if kept covered. It might not look as nice but if it doesn't have an odd smell to it, I'm sure it's just fine.

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PostPosted: Fri May 30, 2008 12:17 pm 

Joined: Fri Mar 28, 2008 12:16 pm
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That detail is amazing. I don't think I have the patience for such detail work! :)

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PostPosted: Fri May 30, 2008 12:48 pm 
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erin wrote:
That detail is amazing. I don't think I have the patience for such detail work! :)


Aww, don't be fooled. Half the talant came from the mold maker and the rest came from having the right tools. I believe BB carries both!

In fact I designed the tool kit just for them they wanted something inexpensive but highly useful and here it is: http://www.brambleberry.com/kits.html (see the third kit down).

With those tools (which come with instructions) anyone can make a soap with that kind of detail in a matter of min. I sell a more elaborate kit but it's also more than twice as expensive. The mini Kit that BB carries is an outstanding buy.

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PostPosted: Fri May 30, 2008 5:04 pm 

Joined: Mon Jan 21, 2008 7:05 am
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Thanks! That is where I goofed. I did spritz to early, after the soap set, but before I was done tweaking the next color!

Joyce


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