The INS is the number that takes into account all the other numbers, all the physical characteristics of the bar of soap and indicates the hardness as well. While 160 is the "ideal" bar of soap, many numbers work well. I have several recipes that I designed to be exactly 160, but I also have 165 recipes and 154 recipes that I like just as well. The 165 recipes do seem to be harder, even though the actual hardness number isn't as high. So the INS looks at each quality and how it impacts the bar to get the hardness, at least to my understanding.
When I first began soaping I knew nothing about a soap calculator or any special numbers. When I found it, I actually made up about 50 recipes to get the "perfect" bar of soap. I have to tell you that there was not really any that were more perfect than the ones I made without the calculator. Then, I ran my old recipes through to see what numbers they pulled, and they were all over the charts. So, while I will look at the numbers, I won't allow a number to completely throw me off a recipe. Instead, I use the numbers to work out specific attributes I may want. So, if I want a truly bubbly soap I will watch that number when making adjustments, or if I want to maintain a high moisturizing content while keeping a good bubble, I will watch those numbers as I adjust percentages. Guidelines, but not absolutes, that is for sure.
As for your questions, I think that anything much over 170 can give you a crumbly soap, but try it and see. Depending on the recipe, yours may be fine. The individual numbers are more important to my way of thinking, but the INS is an overall guideline. So if your individual numbers look good to you, then try it and see what happens. But, if the INS is way up or down, I'd make a small batch to test before doing a regular batch.
_________________ Remember, it's not just that we weather the storm, but how we dance in the rain.
Tammy
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