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Teach Soap • View topic - candle glass adhesion problem

Teach Soap

Soap Making Recipes, Tips and Tutorials
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 19, 2009 9:16 am 

Joined: Tue Dec 08, 2009 5:05 am
Posts: 172
So I know on one of the soap queen videos at "4:51", they show the problem I have been having. The only problem is the candle wax didn't look lighter or modeled at all, until it sat on my dresser for two weeks and NOW it is looking like that. Is my room too cold or something? We keep the house around 70, so I'm not sure why it has been fine until now. What's going on with it?'



****EDIT!! Sorry, apparently the link I posted was for someone else's (on here's) soap webpage. I think I was just looking through them all and I had a bunch of windows open, and posted the wrong link. So, to whoever that was, Sorry again!

http://www.youtube.com/user/soapqueentv

this is the link, the one about the holiday travel candle tins.


Last edited by Beautyinabasket on Mon Dec 21, 2009 5:37 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 19, 2009 10:38 am 
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What type of wax are you using?

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 19, 2009 10:54 am 

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Soy C-3 Naturewax for container candles. Is there a better wax that maybe does that less? Is that a common problem, the slight discoloring after the fact? I mean it literally looks like a slightly different color because a patch got to cold and shrunk away from the glass. What I'm wondering is if this is happening to other people's candles that looked fine when I gave them to them. Is it a temperature thing, or is it just something that sometimes takes a few weeks before it happens? Should I be hanging on to them for a couple weeks to see if they do anything funky? I know I have read sometimes MP soaps can take up to a few weeks to discolor, so I just wondered if it was something like that.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 19, 2009 11:03 am 
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Did you mix really well at the right temp? If the fragrance has any vanilla in it, it could take up to 2 weeks to discolor. It also helps if you cool off the wax slowly. I've used a small cooler with a lid and left mine there til they cooled off on their own.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 19, 2009 3:09 pm 

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Well maybe that was it. It was around 2-3 weeks ago. Wait, no it was gosh probably a month ago. Maybe I am just now noticing? Yes, it is BB's Warm Vanilla Sugar scent for candles. I used that and like just 1 drop (I wanted it slightly more creamy-color came out perfect) of the brown liquid color. I didn't think about candles discoloring. Still, I think I might have been ok with that if it had ALL discolored the same-like you see on the bar of soap on the video that just turns brown. Can you use the vanilla stabilizer in candles too? What is the use. rate? I have been using 1 oz candle scent to 1 lb wax-this is the amount my candle supplier reccomends. But...come to think of it. I think I used only 1 oz to this 1.5 lbs (I had bought a 1 oz container of FO) and it was all I had, so I just mixed it all in.

Like I said it actualy looks like it has dicolored lighter in one spot, but it really looks more like it has just pulled away from the glass rather than changed shades.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 20, 2009 9:35 pm 
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I couldn't find the link to the video that you were referring to so I couldn't see what the containers looks like, but from the description in your last post it sounds like wet spots to me. Can you post a picture of the container your having trouble with? A wet spot is just what you said, the wax pulls away from the container. Soy wax is pretty notorious for them. If you look at the more expensive container candles you will see them if they are truly soy wax. Some soy waxes pull away more than others. You notice it more in white or light colored candles IMO.

Have you had anyone complain about the wet spots?

Sorry if I butted in here. :)


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 21, 2009 5:38 am 

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Is there a type of soy that doesn't do that as bad?


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 21, 2009 11:15 am 
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If it's pure soy, adding 1 TBS. of coconut oil helps with the wet spots.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 21, 2009 11:21 am 

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oooh thanks! i will try that. is that 1 tbsp per lb? It is c3-nature wax. I have not added anything to it other than Color and Fo though, if that's what you mean.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 21, 2009 11:35 am 
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 21, 2009 3:18 pm 

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I will def try that. Any does it matter what/when you mix it in? Like do I need to mix it in with FO or color, or the wax after melting or what? Thanks again, how did you figure that one out?


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 21, 2009 9:27 pm 
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Mix it in the melted wax before you add FO or color. I got this tip from another candle maker. :)

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2009 1:44 am 

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I wonder though, do you do that as a precaution with every pour? Would that be bad?


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 30, 2009 11:49 am 

Joined: Tue Dec 08, 2009 5:05 am
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I was looking here http://www.soaperschoice.com/cgi-soaper ... 7277_27950
at all the different types of coconut oils.
Which is the kind that I would need to be using? What is the difference between the fractionated, and the 76% and 92% melt points. Do I need to get one with a higher mp since I am adding it to candles, or does it matter?
Just want to make sure I am getting the right thing. I notice Bramble berry only has one choice, which makes it easier. But I am going to get something else from this company so I thought I would try it and see how it works since I think I need this oil anyways. Sorry if that's confusing but thanks alot for your help~!


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 30, 2009 12:02 pm 
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Don't use fractionated. Either the 76 or the 92 will work. You only need about a TBS. per lb.

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