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Teach Soap • View topic - Melt & Pour Soap Additive List

Teach Soap

Soap Making Recipes, Tips and Tutorials
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2009 10:56 am 

Joined: Fri May 29, 2009 3:28 pm
Posts: 24
I found this on another site and I have done some of these for a few years now. It's a long list, hope nobody minds. The list was started by someone name prairieannie and many others chimed in with their ingredient list.


"Let's list the things we've added to M&P soap. I'll start, and hopefully everyone will keep adding. This is for everyone, but especially newbies to the MP world who are wondering just what can be added.


Jojoba Oil - This is actually a wax rather than an oil. It's a very silky feeling addition to soaps!

Emu Oil - This oil tends to get very greasy in soap and not a lot is needed. It does have WONDERFUL properties and my research has shown that it doesn't take very much at all to provide these benefits! You may want to research it yourself.. I love using it and it goes in every batch I make.. but in small amounts! Approximately 1 T per pound of base at the most!

Avacado Oil
Evening Primrose Oil
TeaTree Oil


I use approximately 1 tablespoon per pound of base for the above additives. I've used more Tea Tree.. up to 2 tablespoons. Teatree is a very strong smelling oil which needs to be taken into consideration. It can get overpowering very quickly.
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Coffee grounds - I use these wet, and don't use many.. they are VERY scratchy, even if they are wet. For a four pound batch I only use a few Tablespoons total.

Oatmeal - ground quite finely for use as an exfoliant. I also have used whole oats on the top of the loaf for aesthetics.


Honey - 2 Tablespoons per pound of soap

Goat Milk- I use 1/2 to 3/4 cup of fresh goat's milk per four pound batch of soap. You can start with 2 or 3 T per pound. Keep in mind that if you are adding liquid you may need to balance with hard oils or butters.
If you don't have access to fresh, you can use powdered or canned. I don't dilute the canned at all, and I make the powdered extra strength!
To reconstitute the powdered, use distilled water. (Put it in a gravy shaker and shake the soap out of it to get the lumps out! ) You can whisk the heck out of it too if you don't have a gravy shaker or a cup with a lid.

Cream- 2T per pound of base

Shea Butter 1 1/2 - 2T per pound of base depending on other liquids being added

Mango Butter 1 1/2 - 2T per pound of base depending on other liquids being added

Beeswax- 1-2 T per pound of base - This helps to make your bar nice and hard!

Cocoa Butter- same as shea and mango

Veggie glycerin - helps big time with lather and a little with bubbles

Liquid Soap - helps hugely with bubbles!

Peppermint Leaves- I sprinkle them on top.. Adding them in soap turns them dark black.. I think it looks cool, but it has to be the right kind of soap of course. I just sprinkle a tablespoon or two to my full batch of cooling soap and stir them in to suspend

Spearmint Leaves - Same as peppermint leaves

Calendula Petals- 1 or 2 T per pound of soap. They look cool in soap!

Chamomile - A T or so per pound of base.

Lavender Buds - Added to soap base these will turn black and your soap will look like it has mouse turds in it!! I sprinkle a few on top sometimes and it looks nice while holding some of it's color.

Herbal Teas: You can buy teabags and break one or two open into your soap.. suspend by stirring until soap begins to thicken and harden. Keep in mind that large pieces can be very scratchy.. I like to use mainly leaves.
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yogurt powder- 1 or 2T to a lb ...it likes to clump up so i sift it over my cut up base then melt and stir alot

strawberry seeds..just a small amount goes a long way

vanilla bean seeds- gets expensive though
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Kelp or any seaweed - dried, from the health food store; added for aesthetics on top of sea scented soap

Cinnamon, ground - swirled throughout and more on top; made an awesome looking addition to a Halloween soap that was dyed orange


I've got a book by Marie Browning called 'Melt & Pour Soapmaking' that has tons of ideas, but it's too much to type out here. I do recommend the book if you're looking for one on m&p.
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Ground orange peels
Ground rose hips
coffee powder

Once I experminted with a caffine powder because I read that it was supposed to perk up the skin and refresh you. I think it was a dud.
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I don't have time to do each of the additives I listed, but here are a few main additives and advantages:

Butters: most every butter I have ever used has been for it's moisturizing and softening properties, as well as to balance out the ratio of soft and hard oils in soap. This helps to keep the bar from being too soft.
It is my personal belief that cocoa butter helps the most with making a hard bar if I don't want to add bees wax or stearic to make it even harder.

Honey is a wonderful natural humectant. This means that it can draw moisture in, and also retain moisture. It has been used for hundreds of years.. think Cleopatra's milk and honey baths!

Goat's milk just plain loves your skin. I'd say the same for creams, and milks. Very good nourishment for the skin... awesome label appeal as well!

The many different herbs that can be used will each have their own advantages, however, I'm not sure how well we can expect them to perform in soap.. For me the are usually added more for the aesthetic appeal, but of course, some of them will have beneficial properties regardless.. you may have to do a little research on the ones that interest you the most!
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Olive Oil - 1-3 tsp (or 1 tbs) per lb
Gives extra moisturizing and is loaded with vitamins and minerals that you skin loves. Too much OO in your base will make it greasy so add sparingly.

Castor Oil - 1-3 tsp (or 1 tbs) per lb
Adds great moisturizing to you soap skin. Your skin beads up with moisture if you use this in your soap. It also gives your base a super rich creamy lather.

Herbal Tea - 1/2 tsp per lb
I simply open up a tea bag of herbal tea and add about 1/2 tsp to a lb of base. You can use any type of tea really. I like adding herbal tea to create an herbal spa type soap. Tea will provide texture, exfoliation, and an organic or 'green' appeal to your customers. My customers buy the herbal soaps 4-1 over the regular plain ones.

Oatmeal - 1 tbs per lb
Oatmeal has natural skin soothing properties including anti-itch. I grind mine in short blasts in my blender. Its also a natural exfoliate and super gentle on your skin. I add it to my goat's milk soap with locally produced honey for an all natural OMH soap.

Lemon Esstential Oil - 1-2 tsp per lb
Lemon EO is used for renewal and the fragrance is clean and natural and refreshing. I love using it to make my sugar scrub soaps. I sometimes add a small amount of Tea Tree oil to the base for its cleansing properties.

Lemon Peel - up to 1 tbs per lb
Lemon is known for its ability to renew and rejuvenate. I love adding it to my soap. I've found 3 types so far:

1) Powdered Lemon Peel - found this at my local health food store.
2) Course Lemon Peel - use 1/2 to 1 tsp per lb. I use this a lot. Its a natural exfoliant and pairs nicely when adding lemon EO as your scent
3) Lemon Zest - I zest about 1/2 of a lemon for natural lemon zest. It works great in my soap and makes it smell heavenly while adding texture, and exfoliation

Turbinado Sugar - up to 1 tbs per lb
Turbinado is the natural sugar you find in most health food stores. I even find it in the grocers as well. I use it create a sugar scrub soap. Because of its natural light brown color you will want to make soaps that compliment that. Be careful not to add too much sugar as it compromises the lather.

When I am making a lemon sugar scrub I sprinkle some T. sugar into my mold and pour my melted base over it.

Vitamin E
Vitamin E is good for reducing the signs of aging and works nicely in your base. Its also a terrific selling point. You can use vitamin E capsules you get from the store if you don't have any from your soap suppliers.

Ground Cinnamon - 1-3 shakes
Adds texture and eye appeal. My number #1 selling soap has ground cinnamon and ground nutmeg in it. Customers are drawn to the eye appeal of the ground spice.

Ground Nutmeg
- 1-3 shakes
See above. I also add ground cinnamon and nutmeg to my fall and holiday pumpkin soaps. Again, gives your soap texture and eye appeal.

Dried Basil & Parsley Flakes - 1/2 tsp per lb
Gives your soap an herbal appeal and adds a nice texture to it. I added some dried basil flakes to my Tuscan Lace (Flickers) soaps and sold out on the first day.

Paprika - 1-3 shakes
I like the color and it gives your soap a nice color variant and some added texture. Keep in mind that if you remelt the soap the paprika will color the base a reddish color. Best if added to a scent like pumpkin, gingerbread, etc. that compliments the color.

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rosemary
camomile
calendula
cocoa powder
poppy seeds
pumpkin pie spice
thyme

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Salt for a salt bar
FBB
Silk powder
Apricot Kernel Oil
Green Tea Extract
Nettle Extract
Rosemary, yarrow, horsetail
Home made Vanilla Infusion in jojoba
Vanilla Stabiliser
Australian Native Herbs, Sea Parsley, Wattleseed, Rosella Flowers, Lemon Myrtle Leaves, Saltbush
Bee Propolis
Aussie and French Clays,
Ultramarines, oxides, pop colors, glitters, neon colors, lakes
poppyseeds,
luffa
jojoba beads all colors
sesame oil
- gave it a strong smell


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2009 11:12 am 
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Joined: Fri Jan 11, 2008 4:33 pm
Posts: 296
Location: San Diego, CA
OMG, this is awesome! Thank you so much!

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Debbie Chialtas

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2009 11:19 am 

Joined: Fri May 29, 2009 3:28 pm
Posts: 24
You're welcome! I love this list and I keep an eye on it to see if anything else gets added. I wasn't sure if I was allowed to put the link here so I just copied and pasted the ingredients.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2009 12:03 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 25, 2009 8:58 pm
Posts: 244
Location: Natick, MA
this is definitely a list worth having around :)

thanks for posting it!

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 06, 2009 12:27 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 19, 2008 6:41 pm
Posts: 497
Location: long island, ny
i hate to be a pooper, but wouldn't the goat's milk go bad in MP soap? i know it's ok when you use it in CP.... :|

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 06, 2009 2:14 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 14, 2008 11:14 pm
Posts: 24336
Location: Mistress Of Lather

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Closed minds are like faulty parachutes; they refuse to open.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2009 9:39 am 
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Joined: Mon May 04, 2009 11:13 am
Posts: 357
Location: Dublin, Ireland
I'm sure you could use powdered goats milk though - or use a goats milk base and then you get the best of both worlds.

I've just been safety assessed for my M&P soaps and my assessor has given me a list not unlike this - very useful. A lot is down to experiment and practice, some people will like some things more than others. Handy to do small bars testing out each item.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 08, 2009 6:59 am 

Joined: Fri May 29, 2009 3:28 pm
Posts: 24
Wow soapbuddy that really shocks me! I have been making goats milk soap for a few years now. Fresh, canned and powdered. Never once did I have that happen in my M&P soap, as thats the only soap I do, M&P. I also have taught kids how to make this soap for just as long and have never heard of such a thing.

On a side note, I switched over to Mozilla the other day and wasn't able to log in at all. It kept taking me back to the log in page. Then I tried to email info@teachsoap a couple of days ago and still have no response. Very frustrating. So now I have had to resort to using IE again just for this site. Is there some secret trick to log in here if using Mozilla that I don't know about?


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 08, 2009 9:43 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2008 2:57 pm
Posts: 1538
Location: Bellingham, WA
I use Mozilla, have since the site opened.....
I will mention this to the designer though and see if she has any ideas. :D


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 08, 2009 9:47 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 14, 2008 11:14 pm
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Location: Mistress Of Lather

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Irena
Closed minds are like faulty parachutes; they refuse to open.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2009 2:25 am 

Joined: Fri May 29, 2009 3:28 pm
Posts: 24
Ok, your furry soap response had bugged me. I spoke with 6 other people that have been making gm soap for many many more years than I have. All 6 said they have never had even one bar go bad. They have all used fresh, powdered and canned. They all said they have never heard of this before and would like to know exactly how you made it. This totally shocks me as well as them. The only thing I can think of is that your gm was rotten. But of course you'll say it wasn't, so I wonder what it could have been. :?: I'd really like to know as I teach many children a year how to make this soap and I'd hate for this to happen even once.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2009 12:32 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 19, 2008 6:41 pm
Posts: 497
Location: long island, ny
you sure they were talking about melt and pour, and not cold process? from reading this forum, i know that gm in cold process soap is fine, but not too good in melt and pour....

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 23, 2009 9:26 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 19, 2008 11:25 am
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Usually with MP, I prefer powdered GM. In CP soap, I'm all about fresh but usually, if it goes bad sitting on a counter, it will go bad in your melt and pour soap as well. I've had it smell bad in MP soap after using fresh but never grow hair or mold (ewwwww). That's been my experience.

Ideally, if you know you're going to do an MP soap with GM, a pre-made base has the GM added during the cook phase so the soap won't have any chance of going bad.

I LOVE love love GM in soap. It makes a great creamy lather and feels luxurious on the skin. (swoon)

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Happy Soaping!

Anne-Marie
blog: www.soap-queen.blogspot.com
supplies: www.brambleberry.com


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2009 7:11 am 

Joined: Fri May 29, 2009 3:28 pm
Posts: 24
I'm positive dragonlady as we don't make any other kind of soap. :D
I agree Soap Queen...I LOVE gm in my soap too!


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2009 11:25 am 
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Joined: Tue Feb 19, 2008 6:41 pm
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Location: long island, ny
i love gm too. i use the gm base from bb and mix it with the bb shea base to keep it around longer 8) i agree about the lather. mm mm good. :mrgreen:

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