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Teach Soap • View topic - shaving cream

Teach Soap

Soap Making Recipes, Tips and Tutorials
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 Post subject: shaving cream
PostPosted: Wed Feb 04, 2009 2:03 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 19, 2008 6:41 pm
Posts: 497
Location: long island, ny
hi everyone, i've recently been working on a shaving cream. i really just want to make sure i'm putting in enough preservative.

the ingredients include oils, butters, aloe(4oz), water(4oz), protien silk (.25oz), foaming bath butter, bentonite clay and white mp soap.

the total for this recipe is 647 grams. i figured that at about 10%, the preservative (optiphen) would be 6.5g, so i upped it to 7g. is this enough?

i'm also still tweaking my recepie. it's still too "fluffy" and not creamy enough. my BF also says it still kinda pulls on his wiskers when he shaves. (he uses a throwaway razor).

thanks guys!

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 Post subject: Re: shaving cream
PostPosted: Wed Feb 04, 2009 3:23 pm 
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Location: Mistress Of Lather
Recommended use levels for Optiphen are 0.5 – 1.5%.
So 6.56 grams would be 1.5% since you have proteins in there.
Doesn't your bath butter already contain a preservative?
I don't use MP in my shaving soap, so I don't have an answer for that one.

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 Post subject: Re: shaving cream
PostPosted: Wed Feb 04, 2009 7:08 pm 

Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2008 7:57 pm
Posts: 71
Location: Cincy/NKY
I've been experimenting on a shaving cream using bath butter and I want it to be nice and creamy like the Origins Blade Runner, but haven't had alot of luck yet. If I figure it out, I'll let you know and put up the recipe or let me know if you get one that works.

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 Post subject: Re: shaving cream
PostPosted: Wed Feb 04, 2009 9:25 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 14, 2008 11:14 pm
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If you can find the ingredient list for the Origins product, I could help you try to figure out how to take it from there.

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 Post subject: Re: shaving cream
PostPosted: Thu Feb 05, 2009 7:51 am 
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Joined: Tue Feb 19, 2008 6:41 pm
Posts: 497
Location: long island, ny

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Last edited by dragonlady0627 on Thu Feb 05, 2009 8:01 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: shaving cream
PostPosted: Thu Feb 05, 2009 7:58 am 
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Joined: Tue Feb 19, 2008 6:41 pm
Posts: 497
Location: long island, ny
oo oo, i found this:

Ingredients --aqueous infusions, rosemary, mint, stearic acit, butylene blycol, dicaprylyl maleate, bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, french peppermint, clary sage, lavandin, lemon rind, indian palmarosa, sandalwood, australian eucalyptus, egyptian geranium, and coriander essential oils, myristyl myristate, emulsifying wax nf, kelp extract, algin, sunflower seed oil, kukui nut oil, phytosterol, soybean phospholipid, bisabolol, phtosqualane, panthenol, caffeine, tocopheryl acetate, cetyl phosphate, tromethamine, dimethicone, hydroxyethylcellulose, trisodium edta, phenoxyethanol, methyl, propyl and butylparaben

here:

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 Post subject: Re: shaving cream
PostPosted: Thu Feb 05, 2009 12:39 pm 
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Location: Mistress Of Lather

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 Post subject: Re: shaving cream
PostPosted: Thu Feb 05, 2009 4:35 pm 

Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2008 7:57 pm
Posts: 71
Location: Cincy/NKY
Yes soapbuddy, their lotion is thick, but I can apply it with a shaving brush and I've never had an easier pull on the razor and a better shave from anything else in my life. I have some shaving soap from CO Bigelow and it takes at least two minutes to work up a good lather. I use a latte mug to work my lather, but their soap gives me razor rash. If you can figure out a recipe I'll build a shrine in honor of you. :D

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 Post subject: Re: shaving cream
PostPosted: Thu Feb 05, 2009 5:59 pm 
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Ok, let me break down the ingredients first:

Water infusion of rosemary, mint,
stearic acid, - co-emulsifier with e-wax
butylene glycol, - humectant and solubilizer for essential oils
dicaprylyl maleate, - helps to firm skin
bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, - from mixed vegetable oils, helps to lubricate hair
french peppermint, clary sage, lavandin, lemon rind, indian palmarosa, sandalwood, australian eucalyptus, egyptian geranium, and coriander essential oils,
myristyl myristate, - a skin conditioning agent, creates an occlusive layer
emulsifying wax nf, - co-emulsifier with stearid acid
kelp extract, algin, - seaweed extracts
sunflower seed oil, - oil
kukui nut oil, - oil
phytosterol, - plant based cholesterol, most likely from soy
soybean phospholipid, - water based component from soy
bisabolol, - derived from chamomille
phtosqualane, - squalane, possibly from olives
panthenol, - provitamin of B5
caffeine, - coffee extract
tocopheryl acetate, - Vit. E
cetyl phosphate, - lubricant
tromethamine, - anti-inflammatory agent
dimethicone, - silicone based polymer
hydroxyethylcellulose, - thickener
trisodium edta, - chelating agent, ph adjustor
phenoxyethanol, - bactericide
methyl, propyl and butylparaben - preservative

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 Post subject: Re: shaving cream
PostPosted: Thu Feb 05, 2009 6:22 pm 

Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2008 7:57 pm
Posts: 71
Location: Cincy/NKY
From the jar the full list as it reads goes like this:

Rosemary leaf and peppermint leaf water.
Stearic acid
Butylene glycol
Dicaprylyl maleate
bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2
Peppermint, Clary Sage, Lavendin, Lemon Peel, Indian Palmarosa, Australian Sandwood, Geranium Flower, Coriander Fruit Oils
Eucalyptus leaf, flower, and stem extract
citral
Geranial
Linalool
Citranellol
Limonene
myristyl myristate
Kelp extract
Algin
Cetearyl alcohol
Sunflower seed oil
Polysorbate 60
Kukui seed oil
phytosterols
soybean phospholipid
bisabolol
phytosqualane
panthenol
caffeine
tocopherol acetate
cetyl phosphate
tocopherol
caprylyl glycol
tromethamine
dimethicone
hexylene glycol
disodium EDTA
phenoxyethanol

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 Post subject: Re: shaving cream
PostPosted: Thu Feb 05, 2009 7:31 pm 
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Location: Mistress Of Lather
This is reeeeeal rough formulation that seems to work on paper. I haven't used some of these ingredients so I don't know how well this will work in reality. I allowed for 1.0% of the essential oils to use, but you might not even need that much. I also allowed for 1.0% of a preservative. Depending which one you decide to use, you might need less.

68.2 % Rosemary leaf and peppermint leaf water
2.0 % butylene glycol
2.0 % Polysorbate 60
0.2 % trisodium EDTA
0.1 % kelp extract
0.1 % Caffeine extract
0.1% water soluble soybean extract

13.2% A mixture of Sunflower, Squalane, & Kukui Seed
1.5 % Dimethicone
5.0 % Emulsifying Wax NF
2.2 % Stearic Acid
1.0 % a mixture of Squalane & Phytosterol
1.0 % myristyl myristate
1.0 % Essential Oil Blend
0.7 % Vitamin E
0.4 % Cetearyl alcohol
0.3 % Panthenol
1.0 % preservative or as manufacturer recommends

Dicaprylyl maleate – don’t know where to find this
bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 - don’t know where to find this
citral – EO component
Geranial - EO component
Linalool - EO component
Citranellol - EO component
Limonene - EO component
phytosterols – if you don’t mind animal based you can buy pure cholesterol
at any beauty supply store
bisabolol – component of chamomile
cetyl phosphate - don’t know where to find this
caprylyl glycol - don’t know where to find this
tromethamine – I would sub a drop of blue chamomile instead
hexylene glycol – I would leave this out; you already have butylene glycol in there
phenoxyethanol – I would use a standard preservative, maybe liquid Germall Plus?

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 Post subject: Re: shaving cream
PostPosted: Thu Feb 05, 2009 8:01 pm 

Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2008 7:57 pm
Posts: 71
Location: Cincy/NKY

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 Post subject: Re: shaving cream
PostPosted: Thu Feb 05, 2009 8:48 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 14, 2008 11:14 pm
Posts: 24336
Location: Mistress Of Lather
You can buy rosemary or peppermint hydrosols. They have all the active, water soluble properties of essential oils.
You could steep some leaves in hot, distilled water, but it won't be the same.

You make this the same way as if this was a lotion or a cream; including all the safety and sanitary precautions.

Germaben II is used for Lotions & Creams with more Water than Oil: 0.5-1%
The INCI is: Propylene Glycol (and) Diazolidinyl Urea (and) Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben
I don't use it since my clients prefer paraben free.

Pure cholesterol is used a lot in black hair care. It should not be expensive.
No bacon won't work; sorry. :lol:

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 Post subject: Re: shaving cream
PostPosted: Fri Feb 06, 2009 4:20 pm 

Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2008 7:57 pm
Posts: 71
Location: Cincy/NKY
Thank you so much for the help soapbuddy.

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 Post subject: Re: shaving cream
PostPosted: Fri Feb 06, 2009 9:15 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 14, 2008 11:14 pm
Posts: 24336
Location: Mistress Of Lather
You're welcome. :)

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