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Teach Soap • View topic - Recreating a redness calming moisturizer

Teach Soap

Soap Making Recipes, Tips and Tutorials
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 30, 2015 1:10 am 

Joined: Wed Jul 29, 2015 4:46 am
Posts: 3
Please could you offer your advice. My favorite moisturizer is being discontinued and I am desperate to recreate it, because nothing else has ever worked.

The moisturizer I am looking to recreate is to calm and mask red facial skin. I know the ingredients lists are listed in order of what they contain the most of, so am starting from scratch and have started purchasing them in the order they appear. I am really hoping that the real active ingredients which have a positive effective on calming and masking facial redness are early on in the ingredients list, so I won't have to purchase ALL of them before finding something that works. Here is the ingredients list:

Aqua (Water), Caprylic.capric triglyceride, zinc oxide, isohexadecane, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, glycerin, cetaryl alcohol, titanium dioxide (CI 77891), isopropyl myristate, polyacrylamide, propylene glycol, arnica montana flower extract, oleth-10, cetearyl glucoside, phenoxyethanol, methyl PCA< anthemis nobilis (chamomile) flower extract, C13-14 isoparaffin, prunus amygdalus, dulcis (sweet almond) oil, polyhydroxysteric acid, parfum, alumina, aluminum sterate, isodeceth-6, methylparaben, menthol, laureth-7, allatoin, bisabolol, ferulic acid, niacinamide, tocopherol, propylparaben, disodium EDTA, isotearic acid, simethicone, dipropylene glycol, phospholipids, retinyl palmitate, quaternium-15, tocopheryl acetate, ascorbyl palmitate, CI 42090 (blue 1)

So far I just have the Caprylic.capric triglyceride and zinc oxide. When I mix them together, it is way too watery, the zinc oxide gets very uneven when applied to the skin, and it is hard to wash off.

I have a feeling the zinc oxide is the main effective ingredient, not only calming the skin but also masking the redness with its white color. So firstly i'm definitely trying to create a usable zinc oxide moisturizer to test with.

All your thoughts and ideas would be greatly appreciated, thank you.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 30, 2015 10:11 am 

Joined: Thu May 16, 2013 2:57 pm
Posts: 238
Trying to create this exact commercially produced recipe will not be easy, cheap or fun. Just collecting this amount of ingredients will be mega$$$. And, then of course, you do not know the specific amounts of each. Trial and error on something like this will be into the 1000sands.

What you need to do is find a good resource and learn what each ingredient brings to the party. For example, the list includes chamomile extract, which is known to be soothing to irritated skin. See what I mean? Find out what they do, and which ones bring the properties most important to you.

Try doing a lot of reading - making a lotion or cream is not rocket sciece, but it IS science. You need to use a gentle effective preservative in any formula containing water or water based ingredients, or else the nasties that will grow in it very quickly - see and unseen - will be way more hazardous that you want to risk.

Google "swift crafty monkey blog" That is the internet name for a chemistry guru who loves to help new people. Her blog will help you learn to make a simple basic lotion or cream safely, then you can add the stuff to it that will customize it for your skin and preferences.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 30, 2015 10:56 am 
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Joined: Mon Jan 14, 2008 11:14 pm
Posts: 24336
Location: Mistress Of Lather
Zinc oxide is used in diaper rash ointments and facial creams for its soothing properties. I suggest that you go to Swiftcraftymonkey blog and read up on lotions. She also has a Lotionmaking101 e-book that you can purchase. http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com/2 ... -done.html

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Closed minds are like faulty parachutes; they refuse to open.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2015 12:21 am 

Joined: Wed Jul 29, 2015 4:46 am
Posts: 3
Thanks for the info.


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