Teach Soap

Soap Making Recipes, Tips and Tutorials
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 7:24 am 

Joined: Sat Mar 08, 2008 3:59 pm
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Location: Santa Cruz, CA
I'm just starting with CP. I would like my base to come out white. I have titanium dioxide. How much per pound of oils or overall weight should I use? And/or what oils should I stick to to get it white. I have a lot of coconut oil, what other oil can I use? Will soy oil make it yellowish?

Thanks for the help..

Rhonda


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 7:36 am 

Joined: Sun Apr 27, 2008 3:31 am
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Location: North Carolina
Oils that I know saponify white are coconut, lard, and hydrogenated soy. You could also use some olive if you plan to cure it. Olive cures into a nice white bar.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 7:45 am 

Joined: Sat Mar 08, 2008 3:59 pm
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Location: Santa Cruz, CA
Oh it does? Okay, so if I use coconut oil, olive oil and soy oil (is wesson oil "soy oil" hydrogenated?) that's what I have. Or do you mean the crisco oil?..

Thanks
Rhonda


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 3:32 pm 
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AngelBella wrote:
Oh it does? Okay, so if I use coconut oil, olive oil and soy oil (is wesson oil "soy oil" hydrogenated?) that's what I have. Or do you mean the crisco oil?..

Thanks
Rhonda

I would go with Crisco instead of wesson. Make sure if you change your recipe in any way, run it through a lye calculator. Different oils have different SAP values.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 3:47 pm 

Joined: Sat Mar 08, 2008 3:59 pm
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Thanks.. yes actually it is Crisco...I guess I thought it was wesson because looked at it at the store..

Thanks soapbuddy.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 3:57 am 
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Before buying grocery store oils, if the front label does not specify which type of oil it is (it will say "vegetable oil" instead of "corn oil"), check the back label. If it's a blend, it will say something like "soybean oil, corn oil" on the back label.

Walmart's brand of soybean oil does say "vegetable oil" on the front, and checking the back is a necessity when looking for soybean oil. I didn't realize Walmart sold soybean oil until I looked at that back label.

On lye calculators that list Crisco (such as SoapCalc), it is for the hydrogenated shortening, not the liquid oil.

As for oils for white soap, going with oils available in grocery stores: Crisco shortening, "light" or "extra light" olive, safflower, and lard.

In my experience, olive gives a fairly white soap, but it does have a yellow tone to it. I didn't realize it until I held a bar against a bright white sheet of paper. Boy, did that yellow pop! But I have found that light or extra light makes for an even whiter bar than regular or pomace oilive.

Other good oils for white soap are any clear to very lightly colored oil, such as sweet almond, apricot kernel, castor, and fractionated coconut. Of course, coconut, palm kernel, and babassu all soap white. I haven't used it, but I believe tallow soaps white also.

If you want to include butters in your soap, and you're aiming for a white soap, use the more refined white butters. The unrefined and filtered butters tend to give yellow tones to soap. Also, some ingredients (honey, FOs, EOs, etc) can cause yellowing or other discoloration.

How much yellow tone you get with any soap recipe is dependent on the oil combination plus the amount of each oil that can give a yellow tone.

One way to learn what color which oil/butter/fat soaps to is to make a small batch of soap using just one oil. So you would make a batch with each oil you have. Do not add any extra ingredients ... just oil, water, lye.

Some of these will make decent soap, some won't. But it's a good learning experience because not only will you see what color they soap to, you'll see just how hard/soft they soap, how they lather, etc. Keep notes on these batches and consult them when you go to create a new recipe.

Carol


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 8:04 am 

Joined: Sat Mar 08, 2008 3:59 pm
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Location: Santa Cruz, CA
Thanks for all the info Carol.. One question about Crisco for anyone. The shortening I bought says in the ingredients that it has citric acid and cottonseed, mono and diglicerides, TBHQ...etc.. Is this okay to use. I didn't see in my grocery any other version of Crisco Shortening. Also, is Tallow an animal fat. I have to stay away from animal fats..I think it's just disgusting..I do eat chicken so I'm not a vegan or anything..I think it's just off somehow to use animal fats, even if it makes the best sudsy or moisturizing bar.(sorry to anyone who does, that's just me).

I see in most ways except for olive oil that I can just use common sense. If the oils are light then it will be white or off white. So my other question is, how much Titanium Dioxide per lb should I use to make it a nice white white?

Thanks


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 8:54 am 

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Location: North Carolina
Mmm... I would check for other options on the shortening. There are several different brands at most stores that you can compare. The cottonseed oil will make the recipe different so, unless you know the exact percentages, it might mess up your soap.

Tallow is beef fat. Its allright, but I understand about you not wanting to use it. We raise pastured broiler chickens for our family eating purposes.

When I use color powders I use 1tsp ppo.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 10:21 am 
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Quote:
One question about Crisco for anyone. The shortening I bought says in the ingredients that it has citric acid and cottonseed, mono and diglicerides, TBHQ...etc.. Is this okay to use.

BHT and citric acid are used as food grade preservatives and antioxidants. Most, if not all, shortenings have them. Although you could try looking in an organic market for one without them.

Mono- and diglycerides are part of the hydrogenation process. All hydrogenated oils, including shortenings, will have them.

Crisco, at least in the US, is a blend of cottonseed and soybean oil. SoapCalc got the percentages of each to be able to add it to the calculator.

That being said, I've used Crisco in soap a few times, and the soap was just fine.

Quote:
Also, is Tallow an animal fat.

Yep, as is lard. Tallow is from cows or deer, and lard from pigs.

I used to be the same way about using animal fats in soap. It just had a big "ewwww" factor for me, even though I wasn't vegetarian or vegan.

I finally broke down and tried lard a couple of years ago because of wanting a white soap. I still use it instead of palm oil in a lot of my soaps. It's inexpensive, and I can get it from the grocery store if I need to.

My viewpoint is that you use the oils/butters/fats that fit your budget and world view of soapmaking. If it doesn't fit, for whatever reason, don't use it. Use what you can get and afford, and what you like. If you don't like the ingredients, what's the point of making the soap?

Quote:
So my other question is, how much Titanium Dioxide per lb should I use to make it a nice white white?

I think the 1 teaspoon per pound of oils should be enough. Depending on the oils you use, you may need less.

Carol


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 10:47 am 

Joined: Tue Apr 01, 2008 10:44 am
Posts: 956
Location: Southern California
One of the first batches of soap I ever made was with Crisco - yuck!
I hate the way it feels on my skin - but that's just me.
A good alternative to tallow is Palm Kernal - makes a hard white bar.
Good luck!


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